Chicago’s award-winning Koval Distillery takes the term ‘craft‘ quite seriously. A label thrown around so often in this day and age it’s almost become hollow, Robert Birnecker and his wife Sonat are working to restore meaning to the phrase. Witness their line of luscious liqueurs–whole, organic ingredients, macerated on-site and brimming with flavor. The Ginger Liqueur requires 60 pounds of the medicinal root per 10 gallon batch. You can taste the healing properties of this exotic elixir with each mouthful. At 40 proof, it was born to be a digestif, easing your belly after the most menacing of Windy City gorge-fests.

Their delicate mash marinates for 4 days, soaking in all that spicy saturation before undergoing a 3 week long fermentation process. The resulting liqueur can be sipped at room temperature or even topped with just a splash of Fever Tree ginger beer for an added element of effervescence.

The only other product I’ve tasted to even approach the depth of flavor in Koval’s Ginger Liqueur is from New Deal Distillery out of Portland, Oregon. Theirs is slightly spicier and works best when mixed into other spirits. The distiller recommends a jigger of Bourbon for a more potent take on a whiskey ginger. My favorite mixture has been alongside dark, spiced rum. A shot of it mingled with 2 oz. of Siesta Key Spiced Rum, topped with a splash of soda water produces the most alluring, life-affirming Dark and Stormy known to man.

Ginger liqueur is an unexpected enhancement to many a fine libation. But it’s gotta be done right. Artificially-flavored neutral spirits aren’t going to cut it. Stick with these guys and they’ll soon become mainstays of your completed cocktail cabinet.

From the 17th until the 21st of May, the island boasts a cavalcade of tastings, pairings, demos, and informative presentations. What makes MCC so unique is its equal appeal within the industry as well as to the general population. Sure, there’s all sorts of networking going on all around you, but there’s also a bunch of revelers from all over the world enjoying the versatility of quality, craft spirits.

If you’re in the city this afternoon, you can pick yourself up from last night’s festivities by enjoying Coffee and Cocktails. Elad Zbi of The Broken Shaker in Miami has created some custom creations to go along with cold brewed coffees. The event takes place at the SAVEUR Editorial Test Kitchen (15 East 32nd Street).

On Sunday another noteworthy pairing: An Afternoon of Chocolate and Cocktails–a two hour walk-around tasting built around Valrhona Chocolate. It’s a unique opportunity to see how some of Manhattan’s elite mixologist incorporate decadent, sweeter flavors into their concoctions. Head over to the Astor Center (399 Lafayette Street) at 3PM to get a taste of the action. Tickets are still available for purchase here.

The classic comes to a close on Tuesday with the NY Indie Spirits Expo. The Penn Club (30 West 44th Street) in Midtown is the setting for a showcase of some of the world’s craftiest spirit purveyors. Shake hands with distillers and sample an assortment of awesomeness. It’s not often that all these names come together under one roof. So make sure to savor every sip. There are two sessions. The first is from 5-7PM, the second from 7-9PM.

Tonight the Illinois Craft Brewers Guild kicks off Chicago Craft Beer Week in style with their annual event, Beer Under Glass. Held at the Garfield Park Conservatory, the springtime saurez features some of the Chicagolands most beloved brews. If you’re attending, be on the lookout for Solemn Oath Brewery and their floral, funky Whisper Kisses Saison. Another city-based sensation, Atlas Brewing Company will be pouring some of their small batch brews–Obfuscation Imperial Stout is bold and worthy of your time. Attendees will also be treated to great grub from a laundry list of the 312′s classiest cuisine.

Throughout the weekend there’ll be beer festivals–like Half Acre’s 5th Anniversary celebration on Friday night, beer brunches–a Saturday morning Tyranena pairing at the Farmhouse Tavern (228 West Chicago Ave) is a standout, and ‘dinners’–don’t miss the Brewmaster Dinner at Fireside (5739 N. Ravenswood Ave) with the owner of Tighthead Brewing. You’ve got all your meals covered in craft. Then, to top it all off, Beer Week gets into full swing on Sunday with the Goose Island Tap Takeover at Wrigley’s Skybox on Sheffield (3627 N. Sheffield).

But if you need a break from all these sensational suds, don’t forget that Chicago is also home to several noteworthy distilleries. I’m a big fan of Koval, the first boutique producer in this part of the country. Their organic spirits, like the single-grain Lion’s Pride Whiskey should be enjoyed (on the rocks) continually throughout any self-respecting stay in Chicago. Get to the heart of the beast by arranging a tour. They’re offered every Wednesday, Saturday and Sunday. To bring things full circle, don’t forget to try their unique, specialty Bierbrand. It’s a beer schnapps steeped in heavenly-hopped aromas. That’s my kinda drink.

Getting right down to business, we positioned ourselves in a spacious booth next to the bar. The interior of Cochon evokes bygone industry–this is the Warehouse District, after all. Yet somehow it maintains a cozy and inviting feel. Faded brick facades have a way of doing that. Without hesitation, Stephen ordered The Swinekiller–an appropriate choice considering his restaurant is French for ‘piglet.’ It’s a variation on a gin rickey with an infusion of rhubarb bitters. I’m drawn in by The Honeysuckle Rose–Prosecco, honeysuckle vodka, mixed with grapefruit and homemade peach bitters. How exactly does one turn down homemade peach bitters?

The slightly sweet, country tartness of my cocktail acted as an unexpected counterpoint to  the deep, peppery tones of my wood-fired oysters. Armed with liquid courage, I was ready to venture deeper into the culinary Bayou: fried alligator with garlic aioli and boudin–deep fried croquettes of sausage and rice. Savory pairs with spice and so I called upon the Hey, Jack–tequila immersed in jalapeño puree, with taragon, lime juice and ginger beer in tow. I was proud of my evolving cocktail cavalcade until I looked up and noticed that Stephen was staying true to the Swinekiller.

It felt like as good a time as any to confess my deep-seated penchant for all things pig. Chef responded with a recommendation for the oyster & bacon sandwich. Far from a traditional New Orleans Po’ Boy, this comforting creation is delivered in between toasted white bread. Essentially an upscale BLT with fried oysters added into the fray, I needed a similarly straight-forward libation to match, pound-for-pound. The Orange Whiskey Cocktail was willing and able. Buffalo Trace bourbon–a personal favorite–enhanced with Peychaud’s and a splash of OJ. Some sweet, some starch, a touch of brine and many fine laughs. A recipe beyond food and drink, morphing into transcendent revelry.

Back on planet Earth, Cochon features a noteworthy list of bourbons. Blanton’s and Willett Pot Still Reserve are both well worth the $12 pour, pairing well with any Creole-influenced entreé. Beer drinkers will have no reservations when faced with a diverse list of local craft.

After the dining was done, Stryjewski led me down the street to his brand new Peche (800 Magazine Street), opened with co-chef/impresario/culinary wizard Donald Link. It’s going to do for fish what Cochon does for meat. Namely: blow your frickin’ mind. I hope your sitting down.

Photo Credit: Miquel Solorzano

Marvin Allen has seen it all. As head bartender at one of the premiere bars in the French Quarter, can you imagine the stories he has to tell? If you want elaboration, you’ll have to make your way to the Carousel Bar (214 Royal St) in New Orleans’ historic Hotel Monteleone. As for now, I’ll just tell you about the cocktails.

Frequently regarded as one of the elite mixologists in a town known for its booze, Marvin does not mess around. He has to assemble intricate drinks for a circus  of customers literally rotating around him while he remains stationary at the center. The 25 seat carousel that gives the bar its name rests on 2000 steel rollers. It’s over 60 years old and takes roughly 15 minutes to make one revolution –or as Marvin points out: about a cocktail’s length of time.

If that seems like a long time to ‘nurse‘ a cocktail, consider the meticulous care and quality ingredients going into each drink. Order the Pierre’s Sazerac and you get a high octane variation on the New Orleans classic, doctored up with absinthe and champagne cognac. Its a curious melding of flavors that deserves careful contemplation. And Marvin is happy to feed you some added food for thought, sharing the sordid history of absinthe as you sip.

The Vieux Carré is one of the city’s signature cocktails. It was invented right here in 1938 by Walter Bergeron. Today, Marvin guards that provincial pedigree by whipping up the best in town. The floral essence of Benedectine pops from the nose, fading into the background as you encounter the slightly sweet, subtly herbaceous notes of rye, cognac and Peychaud’s. As Marvin explains, the drink was invented as an embodiment of the diverse cultures colliding in the Crescent City: Italian vermouth, Caribbean bitters, French cognac, Dixieland Rye.

It’s not many places where you get to enjoy history while drinking it. Belly up to the Carousel Bar and Marvin Allen will school you so well your head will spin. Or is that just the bar?

Distiller Duncan Holaday

Great rum is born of sunny origins. It’s supposed to be a Caribbean spirit.  Transported by peg-legged pirates aboard their wooden square-riggers, jolly rogers flapping violently upon the masts. But forget what it ought to be. Dunc’s Mill Artisan Rums–handmade in Vermont, of all places–shows us what great rum actually is.

Smooth, impossibly-light in body and preciously subtle in its aroma, their Elderflower Rum is unlike any other spirit I’ve ever tasted. The originality owes itself to a list of ingredients that encompass the globe: the floral essence of Vermont botanicals, the unmistakeable sweetness of Caribbean cane sugar and the unique old-world splender of Elder essence from Austria. Such a mellifluous melding of nose and body, it deserves to be consumed solo–either on the rocks or neat, depending only on the climate.

At 30% alcohol, it’s also not incredibly overwhelming. You can afford to sip on a glass of the clear, fragrant spirit without feeling three sheets to the wind. If you feel compelled to add something, however, I found success with a topping of Fever Tree Ginger Ale. Served on the rocks in a tumbler, it was a soothing libation that I dubbed a Light & Lovely. Nothing dark nor stormy about it.

For some added oomph, Dunc’s Mill offers their Backwoods Reserve. It’s a darker, 80 proof rum that hints at oak, thanks to a small batch maturation process. As with the Elderflower, the body is smooth as silk, slick as butter. The finish is thinly-veiled molasses prevailing over a distant spice. Take a sip, neat, slightly warm. If its anywhere near as meaningful to your palate as it is to mine, you need not camouflage it in a blizzard of sweet juice drinks.

And what would a Vermont-made rum be without a maple infused variety? Distiller Duncan Holaday wouldn’t dare forget his roots. A taste of the Maple Rum will zap you straight to the Northeast Kingdom. The nose immediately suggests the sappy goodness to come. I could pour this stuff on my pancakes for the ultimate boozy breakfast. But I’d much rather let it wash over ice, sit upon my tongue and set sail for somewhere between Vermont and the Virgin Island’s in my mind’s eye.

The Delilah

This is a gentle, classic cocktail, smooth and refreshing. It also packs a serious punch when you least expect it, just like mom. It relies on gin as a foundation, so you’re going to need something special. I prefer Bluecoat American Dry Gin from Philadelphia Distilling. It’s certified organic–happy and healthy for the matriarch. The small batch production insures an intense aroma with hints of citrus peel popping off the nose. Mix 1.5 oz. with 3/4 oz. of orange liqueur–I suggest another organic spirit, Fruit Lab from Greenbar Collective–and 3/4 oz. of freshly squeezed organic lemon juice into a shaker with ice. Shake vigorously and strain into a chilled martini glass. The slight yellow tinge of the drink is complimented nicely with a slight zest of lemon peel.

Chocolatetini 

Mom loves chocolate. All women do. It’s scientifically proven. Satisfy her cravings with this modern twist on an old-fashioned classic. Replace the traditional vodka with New Deal’s chocolate-infused Mud Puddle. Not overly sweet, this well-balanced grain spirit has but a hint of cocoa, melding like silk alongside all sorts of mixers. For this easy recipe, all you need is 2 oz. of the Mud Puddle and 2 drops of a sweet vermouth–try Vya, from California’s Quady Winery. Shake them together with ice and strain into a cocoa powder-rimmed martini glass. As a nice touch, garnish the glass with a Hershey’s kiss.

Susan Sarandon

Here’s a drink inspired by one of my mom’s favorite actresses. It’s so simple and so obvious but requires a specialized ingredient: pepper-infused vodka! Again, I turn to Portland, Oregon’s New Deal Distillery to provide a proper starting point. Their Hot Monkey is handcrafted from a blend of 5 different southwestern-style peppers. It is hot, but not too hot. And the perfect way to bring out that zing? The lingering, root-heavy spice of ginger beer. Go with Fever Tree–hands down the best carbonated mixers on the market today. All you need to do is pour 1.5 oz. of pepper vodka on the rocks and top the glass off with the fizzy, ginger beer. A bold, zesty addition to a memorable meal with mom.

Happy Mother’s Day!

Welcome to Delmonico

New Orleans, Lousiana holds a very special place in my heart. It’s a city always celebrating something. Life as it should be. Never is this more obvious than during the Jazz and Heritage Festival, held annually for two glorious weeks every spring. If you’ve never been, approximate it near the top 3 on your Bucket List. Because the music in this town never stands alone. It’s continually served alongside some of the most precious cuisine and cocktails on the planet. I made a pilgrimage far beyond the fairgrounds of Jazz Fest in order to find the city’s most outstanding outposts for fine dining. Over the next few weeks I’ll share them all. But remember, as the music from 2013 Jazz Fest has dimmed, the real festival forever plays in New Orleans.

On opening Saturday of Jazz Fest, headlining artist and renowned piano man Billy Joel reminded the rowdy crowd that “only the good die young.” Heeding his advice, I made my way towards the city’s elegant Garden District in search of sin in the form of decadent dining. Just off the trolley-lined streets of St. Charles you’ll find the stately confines of Emeril’s Delmonico–a renowned restaurant that has stood its ground for over 117 years.

White Manhattan with Charcuterie

An ode to Creole cuisine, the eatery is as inviting as an old southern home and every bit as charming. But while making concessions to the past, the menu here has it’s eyes fixed firmly on the now. From a classic foundation, the cocktails build up into something altogether new. Like their White Manhattan, made with Buffalo Trace White Dog Whiskey and Cocchi Americano–a golden-hued Italian aperitif. It was soft on the palate yet maintained enough firepower in the finish to hold its own alongside a savory charcuterie featuring red wine-cured beef tongue.

For the next course, a little something sweet to balance out the saltiness of a Crawfish Gnocchi. I went with The Lindsay–a variation on a raspberry Mojito relying on champagne rather than seltzer for its sparkle. Served in a sugar-rimmed glass, the refreshing surge of sucrose washed away the briny bite of Gulf lingering in each mouthful of the innovative seafood-pasta fusion.

The main was a freshly-caught drum fish prepared with fennel, shrimp and eggplant gratin, in an herbsaint butter. A flaky texture and subtle anise aroma required a special cocktail counterpart. The Alpine Breeze fit the bill. Citrus-infused vodka mixed with elderberry syrup for a wildly floral bouquet, accentuating the aura of the entree before it even passed thru my lips. Libation and victual exchanged pleasantries in alternating successions of sip and bite.

While many of the specialty cocktails at Delmonico bend towards sweet, an assortment of digestivos–house made by Chef de Cuisine Anthony Scanio–are all about herbaceous Italian sapidity. His entirely original Elixir of the Seven Powers incorporates a slew of specialty spices marinaded for over a month in neutral spirits. The nocino–made from fresh walnuts–is robust in flavor and dark in body. But it’s the divine destiny of his semi-tart blood orangecello to complete my coconut cream pie, supple as a billowing cloud.

After putting more into my belly than any reasonable man should, I took solace in those familiar words from the Piano Man: “Only the good die young.” Alright. I’d been real bad. And I could live like this forever.

The Lindsay

For one, you create custom pies at the bar–directing the pizzaiola, ingredient-by-ingredient before he hoists it into high temperature, wood fire ovens. The pizza is in the Roman style, by way of Berkeley–ultra thin crust, consisting of the freshest, local ingredients imaginable. Such vivid, robust tastes require equally active cocktails to engage the palate. The way Build approaches this incomparable combination is unique and inviting to any connoisseur.

When it comes to the beer, they have 16, frequently rotating, local microbrews on tap. The offerings are divvied into several flights concentrating on specific flavor profiles–hoppy, malty, etc. But where the bar really takes flight is in the unique cocktail menu curated by manager Jay Crabb. Every day he batches a trove of curious bitters and elixirs immersed within an ethereal assortment of Italian digestivos and Kentucky Bourbons.

Complex beverages with playful names–I ordered a Ubiquitous But Delicious Nevertheless–might seem daunting to the novice drinker. Yet they become immediately accessible thanks to Crabb’s meticulous organization. All the concoctions are separated by generalized style and equipped with annotated subtitling. It might give room for pause to see the Tazza Di Alloro E Zenzoro–a cocktail blended with bay laurel and Douglas fir. But when you see that it’s merely their take on a reliable ol’ Pimm’s Cup, your reservation is supplanted with anticipation.

I certainly couldn’t wait to inspect the Sfera Grande sculpted ice served with my drink. Chainsawed and chiseled into massive transparent globules, the ice is literally faultless and serves to slowly open up the cocktail as you sit.

A new approach is inherent to every facet of Build. Most radical of all might be their kegged wines. Damn good wines. 20 in all are served on tap at the bar. Not only are they better then you expect, they’re actually more ecological this way: each keg saves 24 glass bottles from the landfill. Does it get any more Berkeley than that?

When you think you’re finished, save room for dessert: their homemade butterscotch budino, served with mascarpone cream is as decadent as it sounds–salted, caramelized sugars, encapsulated in a luscious cream. When paired alongside the rich, roasted flavors of the Payback Porter on draft, I believe I had epiphanous visions of the Great Beyond.

In this town of culinary grandiosity, it’s not enough to merely do something different; you have to do it well. Bravo to Build for bringing it all together.

When it comes to bourbon, you can’t mess around. The Bluegrass state won’t allow it, for one, nor will your own sense of decency. Thanks to the proliferation of American craft distilleries, the possibilities are endless. But without breaking the bank, I enjoy the versatility of Buffalo Trace. It’s smooth enough for sipping and complex enough to shine thru a mixed drink. It’s also usually sold for well under $30 a handle. I love the taste and don’t feel guilty going through it quickly–a lethal combination.

To really capture the taste and decadence of New Orleans though you need to mix it up right. I suggest Sazerac Praline Pecan Liqueur, “The Spirit of New Orleans.” This nut based drink has its share of sweetness, to be sure, but it’s all the right kind and it somehow melds mellifluously amidst the right whiskey. They are the perfect partners in crime. The getaway driver is a small dab of a crafty bitter. Without further ado, here is one of my true Taste of New Orleans:

Pour 2 ounces of Buffalo Trace Bourbon, 3/4 oz. of Praline Liqueur, a dab of Bittercube’s Jamaican #1 bitters on ice into a shaker. Mix vigorously and strain into a Mason jar with a zest of orange as garnish. Serve alongside a New Orleans praline candy for the most authentic experience. Brass band optional.