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Shochu: Japan’s Distilled Beverage

One of my most vivid alcohol-related memories is going to Kyoto in the summer of 2003 and trying my first shochu drink. I was visiting Japan’s former capital with my dad’s new wife, Sachiyo. Sachiyo is but a memory, but the impact she left on me the moment she casually ordered an oolong-hi (shochu iced tea) for me would last forever. Sitting on the tatami mats in an izakaya (Japanese-style pub) overlooking the Kamo River in Kyoto, our feet were finally free from the confines of our shoes and our throats were parched from a long day of sightseeing in the scorching humidity. Seeing that tall glass of shochu with oolong tea, glistening in the glare of the setting sun, touching down on our wooden table was seductive. The first sip shuttled me back to childhood, when I would come home from school and my mom would pour mugi-cha (cold, [...]

Like Water For Beer

The human body is almost 62% water, and we can all agree that people are pretty important. The Earth’s surface is 75% water, and clearly, the planet is very important. Beer is roughly 93% water, so clearly it must be the most important thing in the world. Given my inscrutable reasoning, it pains me to say that there is one thing more important than beer, and that is water itself — which, given the amount of various compounds it contains, is roughly 99.985% H2O.  Because of this remaining 0.015% , not all water is the same, and I don’t mean to sound bigoted, but some waters are better than others. Various brewing styles around the world weren’t initially dictated by marketing campaigns but rather by a region’s respective natural water supply. The differences in the beers are often black and white, or in brewing terms, black and light. For example, [...]

Anchor Steam Beer

Hot and Steamy: Anchor Steam’s Historic Roots and Delicious Future

First came the steam engine, then refrigeration, and then lager beer… and lager beer became damn popular. Shortly after the California Gold Rush, the pioneers gave the world steam beer. You see, lager beer is aged briefly, or “lagged” at cold temperatures. But there was no refrigeration yet in San Francisco in the 1850s, and all those thirsty miners wanted lager. So the brewers tried making lager beer without refrigeration — at ale temperatures. At first it was a total flop. By the time the hot brew of hops and barley cooled, wild yeasts and other buggers had gotten in and spoiled the batch before the lager-style yeasts could be added. Some nameless, innovative brewer came up with “cool ships”: long shallow pans into which the beer was poured, allowing the wort (unfermented beer) to cool much more rapidly. Once the temperature had dropped to where the lager yeasts could [...]

Bodegas Grant La Garrocha Fino Sherry

New Booze: Bodegas Grant La Garrocha Fino Sherry

As the writer of a ‘New Booze’ column, I never thought I’d be able to talk about sherry, but here we are: Bodegas Grant is the newest sherry producer imported to the US, and just in time for a resurgence in popularity of this previously obscured wine. Sherry has been produced for centuries and plays an integral role in the aging of spirits, as sherry casks add unique flavor to a variety of spirits, but there has been very little rhetoric surrounding it in the modern cocktail community until recently. There is a romance and an unmatched mystique to this wine, but many bodegas outside of Jerez, sherry’s production region in Spain, have been shuttered due to the world’s waned enthusiasm. A new, boutique sherry producer being imported is both exciting and relieving. Bodegas Grant is located in El Puerto de Santa Maria, southwest of Jerez on the shore of [...]

grapevines

Bugs, Dirt, and Clones: The Modern Grapevine

Grapevines are among the most finicky of crops. Not content to just be sensitive to whims of weather, grapes even resist the best intentions of modern civilization. the establishment of trade routes between the americas and Europe irreversibly changed not only the fortunes of many now-defunct wine chateaux, but it also forever changed the way that a vineyard is planted. Genetic (and marketing) research now makes it possible to grow just about any type of grape in any type of vineyard given the proper vine clones. the specter of climate change (if you happen to believe in “science”) is already wreaking havoc in established wine regions and making new ones as we speak. before any of this factors in, it all begins with dirt. Viticulturists and soil go together like cats and catnip. They need to feel it, grind it up, smell it, taste it, and analyze it endlessly. And [...]

Hey There, Hot Stuff: Great hot drinks, and excuses to set stuff on fire

“Have you ever considered how often we set stuff on fire?” the bartender asked as he set my Manhattan down. As if to illustrate his point, he deftly flexed an orange peel over the drink, sparking the citrus oils into flame with a match struck on the edge of the bar. It’s true, when you think about it. Everyone has a hazy memory of sucking down flaming shots of one kind or another and feeling a bit dangerous. For me, it was ouzo. Some like to set absinthe on fire as part of the elaborate drinking ritual; this practice was developed in order to make Czech absinthe palatable, but most distillers I’ve met frown on having their product cooked. I once watched author Wayne Curtis use a charcoal starter to ignite overproof rum-soaked gunpowder – WHOOSH! – to demonstrate how alcoholic content was tested prior to the invention of the [...]