Your sour beer under microscope, courtesy of bevshots

Shortly after rescuing the Anchor Brewery in 1965, Fritz Maytag threw a party to spread the word. A veritable who’s-who of San Franciscans, including the mayor, RSVP’ed. But instead of celebrating, the fete nearly turned into a funeral. “We had in those days,” said Maytag, “two tanks of beer and we filled about one hundred kegs per tank. And it was all sour.” The beer, it turns out, was grossly infected with sour-taste-making bacteria, to the point where Maytag jokingly referred to it as a “Belgian beer.” The story has a happy ending—employees fortunately tracked down enough refrigerated kegs to slow the bacteria’s growth, and folks were none the wiser—but that’s where Anchor’s strict adherence to thorough sanitation originated. So while each of Anchor’s early products pioneered their American craft iterations from IPA to porter to barleywine, the brewery is now one of the few craft breweries in the nation not championing, or even dabbling, in this thing called ‘sour beer.’

A one-man Lewis and Clark of the American sour frontier is Vinnie Cilurzo, owner and brewmaster at Russian River Brewing Co., just a short hop north from Anchor. He’s the guy responsible for a series of Belgian-influenced sour ales including Consecration, Supplication, and others that start with Brettanomyces (yeast that plays a big part in sour beers) and end with “–ation.” In penning the entry for ‘sour beer’ in the Oxford Companion to Beer (OCB), Cilurzo reiterates Maytag’s knock that, “When speaking of beer, the word ‘sour’ is usually a pejorative.” He adds, “That said, there is a range of older beer styles that are traditionally acidic, and together with modern variants inspired by them, they have been termed, perhaps a bit rakishly, ‘sour beer.’”

A great many beers fall under that category, from Flemish Reds and Oud Bruins to Lambics and an entire host of ‘wild’ ales, so termed for employing rapscallion yeasts and bacteria that can take an infected beer down a thrilling journey way off the beaten path. Make no mistake about it; when a beer ferments spontaneously via wild yeast, it is indeed infected. For this reason, makers of sour beers tend to view themselves less as brewmasters, for that implies being the master of the brews, and more as wranglers or curators guiding the end result via blending, patience, and a little prayer.

Going to extremes

Whether a beer is intentionally inoculated with yeasts such as Brettanomyces, or simply allowed to become host to these untamed critters through the allure of wort (beer’s unfermented origins) cooling beneath the night sky where ambient yeast and bacteria hitchhike on the breeze, the result offers flavors found at the extreme fringes of what is often called beer’s flavor wheel. Seriously, go to Beerflavorwheel.com to learn more. And if there’s one thing beer connoisseurs dig above all else, it’s extreme flavor. Join said fanatics at Puckerfest held at Belmont Station in Portland and Sour Fest thrown at the Stone Brewery near San Diego. Each festival is celebrating its sixth anniversary this July.

When you think about it, the history of craft beer has always been about pushing the boundaries of flavor and taste. Thirty years ago, the revolution began by shifting from pale lagers to pale ales like Sierra Nevada’s. From there, we’ve rapidly evolved to Russian River’s Pliny the Elder being a benchmark for double IPA, pale ale’s cousin on ‘roids. It stands to reason that Russian River’s Sonambic ales are the standard bearer for American craft sour beers. Sonambic, by the way, is what Cilurzo dubs his spontaneously fermented beers. Lambics are the provenance of Belgium’s Senne Valley, where breweries produce authentic, spontaneously fermented sour beers. Because the native bacteria adrift in Sonoma are different than those floating around Brussels, Russian River Brewing Co. refrains from purloining Lambic’s classification. Two things Lambic producers and Russian River Brewing Co. have in common are profoundly acidic beers and devoted fans. It’s those fans, perhaps more than the makers of the beers, who are propelling the popularity of such ales.

Sour passion kids

The practice of inoculating beer with earthy, funky Brettanomyces and sour-producing microflora such as Lactobacillus and Pediococcus is infecting the brewing industry. “What is certain, if improbable, is that sour beers are taking hold, especially in the United States,” writes Cilurzo in the OCB.

New Belgium Brewing

in Colorado lured brewmaster Peter Bouckaert from the Rodenbach brewery in Belgium, before beer geeks vociferously started clamoring for more sour beer, resulting in their heralded beer, La Folie. In Portland, Oregon, the Cascade Barrel House is a domestic mecca for sour beers, earning both gold and silver medals in the wood- and barrel-aged sour beer category at the 2009 Great American Beer Fest for their Bourbonic Plague and Vlad the Imp Aler beers, respectively.

But the category’s popularity permeates the beer culture beyond the American West, and delicious offerings emanate from New York’s Captain Lawrence Brewing and Massachusetts’ New England Brewing, to the somewhat surprising locales of Nebraska and Indiana, where the Omaha Brewing Co. and Upland Brewing Co, respectively, keep less metropolitan regions awash in sour.

While statistics aren’t available for how many craft breweries create sour beers, more and more are experimenting with the style, meaning you’re likely to find at least a few barrels of the stuff stashed away somewhere in the brewhouse. Moreover, a significant handful of the new breweries in the planning phase—numbering over 700 altogether, according the Brewers Association—aim to offer sour beers predominantly, if not exclusively. Examples include The Rare Barrel in Northern California and the Ale Apothecary in Central Oregon.

If you delve into this acidic world, sip gingerly. Just as you’d probably have a hard time devouring a whole lemon, palate-obliterating sour fatigue is a real thing.

by Brian Yaeger

The event kicked-off shortly before 1PM on Saturday, as hordes of beer-lovers from across the state descended upon the green pastures of the Mendocino County Fair. Several large tents were setup throughout the landscape, each one providing countless taps of microbrewed bliss. Taking advantage of my early arrival, I wanted to make sure to enjoy some of my favorite Russian River beers before their lines inevitably swelled to preposterous proportions.

After a few swills of the peerless Pliny the Elder Double IPA and their lip-smacking Supplication sour, I was ready to engage in the most alluring joy offered at this festival of unsurpassed frivolity: exploration. With so many nanobrews and gypsy brewers on hand, you’re guaranteed to come across a multitude of ales and lagers that you’ve never tried before and are likely to never try again. You got to make the most of such a unique experience and you DEFINITELY need to pace yourself. As many of the specialty brews you encounter here are upwards of 8% ABV, you’re going to start feeling the heat sooner rather than later, especially with California’s unfettered springtime sunshine pounding down overhead.

Thankfully there are more than a few ways to keep yourself in check throughout the action-packed afternoon: enjoy some local grub, like delicious deep-fried pickles, or sensational slow-cooked BBQ, rock-out to some live music being played at multiple stages throughout the venue, seek out shade from time-to-time (my personal angle of attack), and get your hands on some lower-ABV favorites such as stouts and porters that are still high on flavor.

I was thoroughly impressed by High Water Brewing Co.’s Campfire Stout. With the aroma of marshmallows and taste of s’mores, this dangerously drinkable 7.3% behemoth made me thankful that my campsite was within stumbling distance. Knee Deep Brewing Company out of Lincoln, CA also knocked me off my feet with their bitter blast of their award-winning Hoptologist Double IPA. As an unapologetic hop-head, it had all the flavor I crave in a pale ale. And as an obsessive drinker of craft beer in general, Boonville Beer Fest 2012 had only one downside: having to wait another year until it happens again!

To save us all from this unspeakable malaise, Blind Tiger Ale House (281 Bleecker Street) in the West Village comes to the rescue, offering 31 taps of microbrewed goodness along with an expansive bevy of limited edition bottled beers. Here you’ll come across a whole slew of West Coast style IPAs from the likes of Bear Republic and Green Flash—the good stuff that is very difficult to find anywhere in the East Coast, let alone in a city not exactly known for craft beer offerings.

The taps are running until 4AM, 7 days a week and you’ll always encounter a good crowd while parked in their friendly confines. The wood facades and dim lighting make for an inviting vibe and the bartenders know a thing or two about the suds they serve. There’s also an impressive food menu here featuring artisanal cheeses and familiar pub grub like chicken wings. I can’t speak for their desirability, however, because I come to this place to drink and for that I’m never disappointed.

As they say in their Mission Statement: “Craft beer is our focus..And our passion.” One trip to this Greenwich Village all-star will prove to you that they’re not just mincing words. And best of all, the taplist is constantly rotating. So come on in and come often!

My love for pizza has stayed strong since childhood, but now that I’m technically classified as an ‘adult’ the accompanying beverage that I choose to wash it down with has evolved from artificially-flavored pop to something far more mature. And I’m not talking generic American lager here, folks. I mean, to each their own, but have you tasted some of the world-class artisanal pizza being produced in major cities across the country these days? You wouldn’t go to a five-star dining establishment and finish off your fine filet mignon with cheap swill, so why would consider doing such with an authentic Neapolitan-style pie made with all-natural, locally-sourced ingredients?

800 Degrees (10889 Lindbrook Drive) in Los Angeles totally gets it. This innovative parlor offers an artful array of craft beer and wine on tap, all befitting of the top-notch, customized pies that continuously crank out of their wood-burning ovens. And yes, you read that correctly: they feature wine on draft, 4 to be exact, including Darcie Kent‘s 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon, and Tangent‘s 2011 Pinot Grigio from Edna Valley.

They recently opened their doors in the quaint village of Westwood, just blocks away from the heart of UCLA’s campus. But you don’t need an advanced degree to understand how such a simple-yet-seldom-used formula attracts the high-paced lines that frequently spill out onto the streets here. Fast, fresh, finely-crafted, and most importantly: flavorful.

I sat down with General Manager Jolie Duhon for a crash-course in pizza pairing and what I learned was as pleasing to the palate as it was informative and insightful.

First lesson: wines with strong acidity go well with fatty, robust flavors as the acid tends to cut through the fat and bring balance to the tongue. She recommended pairing their 2009 Laetitia Pinot Noir with the Tartufo Pie—a popular combination of truffle cheese, roasted mushrooms and arugula. The earth tones of the well-balanced red danced ever-so-delicately with the deep flavors of mushroom and truffle topping the Tartufo. Another good partner for emboldening thick and smokier flavors is a full-bodied IPA. In addition to New Belgium’s Ranger IPA on tap, 800 Degrees also serves bottles of Green Flash’s West Coast IPA—a holy grail for Hopheads.

Second lesson: fruitier wines go well with sweeter foods. The Sausage and Peppers special, made with the slightly-sugary house tomato sauce, sweet italian sausage, and caramelized onions begged for a bright Chardonnay or even better—a slightly sweet sparkling Lambrusco.

Final lesson: Prosecco goes well with everything, so pop the bub and celebrate some good grub.

Photo By: Sarah Henry

After many months of eager anticipation, Berkeley favorite Gioia Pizzeria (2240 Polk Street) has arrived in San Francisco. And the iteration on this side of the Bay includes several notable additions that make it well worth the wait.

Most importantly, owners Will and Karen Gioia have added an impressive collection of beer and wine to their delicious SF menu. In addition to a rotating list of 5 Italian reds and 5 whites, the bar also features 6 satiating local microbrews. If you make your way over to the beautiful new Polk Street digs, you’ll be able to indulge in several limited edition beers from right across the Bay in Oakland: Linden Street Brewery’s exquisite Burning Oak Black Lager–roasted to perfection to taste slightly sweet with a very light body. Also on tap is Dying Vine’s Hop Candi, an English-style IPA with tender tones of rye and citrus.

From deeper in the Bay Area you can enjoy some fermented infectiousness from Heretic Brewing Company, based out of Pittsburg–not the one in Pennsylvania. This imaginative producer implores its drinkers to “be a heretic, don’t drink ordinary beer.” And their suds are anything but pedestrian. Evil Twin is an unusual blood-red ale with a perfect ratio of malt to hops, neither too sweet nor too bitter. If you’re in the Bay Area, be on the look out for their special releases, including Torment–a Belgian-style dark ale aged in French oak barrels that boasts a whopping 12% ABV.

The husband and wife team behind the eponymous restaurant received their culinary pedigree at Chez Panisse, so clearly you’re in for a culinary experience to accompany these inspired libations. The quality of ingredients and thoughtfulness of preparation really shines through in the dining experience at this new Russian Hill standout. When tasty East Coast-style pizza meets great West Coast-style microbrews its the best of both worlds!

NorCal Beer Blog

1.) Los Angeles, CA

When it comes to celebrating Mexican culture, the West is the best. And nowhere else demonstrates this better than the City of Angels, whose population is nearly half hispanic. As you’d expect, LA likes to have a grand old fiesta on this rocking holiday. Check out Mas Malo (515 West 7th Street) in Downtown for some great margarita specials or La Cabañita (3447 North Verdugo Road) in Glendale for some authentic Mexican flair.

2.) San Antonio, TX

This old fashioned Texas city is within a hundred miles of the border and it shows on this culturally significant day of the year. Hit up Iron Cactus Mexican Grill & Margarita Bar (200 River Walk St. # 100) on the scenic River Walk for some great views and tub-sized margaritas. The nearby Rio Grande Cantina (421 E Commerce St.) is a non-stop party with delicious grub and potent potables.

3.) Phoenix, AZ

Phoenix is a culturally-diverse urban enclave that hosts a number of street festivals to commemorate Mexico’s big day. The Cinco de Mayo Salsa Festival (34505 N. Scottsdale Road) in neighboring Scottsdale showcases local chefs and mixologists with a diverse array of Mexican dishes and drinks. El Hefe Cinco de Mayo Block Party (640 S. Mill Ave.) features $2 Coronas and $4 mammoth margaritas all afternoon.

4.) Las Vegas, NV

Vegas is always a nonstop party, so Cinco de Mayo is pretty much like any day on the calendar in the steaming Nevada desert. However, two newcomers to town have enriched the Mexican street cred in Sin City. Señor Frog’s (3300 Las Vegas Boulevard) at Treasure Island Casino is celebrating it’s grand opening on May 5th and will attempt to break the world record for largest tequila toast ever. Next door at the Flamingo, Carlos ‘n Charlie’s (3555 Las Vegas Boulevard South) just opened it’s massive 13,000 square foot Mexican oasis and is a perfect place to kick back and relax the day away in a tequila-induced haze.

5.) New York, NY

New York may not be known for its overflowing Mexican community, but let’s fact it: the Big Apple has something for everyone. And since there’s little time to sleep when you’re celebrating Cinco de Mayo, you might as well get your kicks in the City That Never Sleeps. Maya (1191 1st Ave.) in the Upper East side is a hip tequila bar that will have all sorts of special shots to suit your fancy on the big day. In midtown, head over to the decidedly un-Mexican Johnny Utah’s (25 West 51st St. #3) to celebrate Cinco de Mayo in style: with their annual Bullriding Fiesta. See how well your booze sits with you while bucking a mechanical steer!

Photo By: Lauren Chattman

So with a mission of bringing craft beer to the eclectic communities of Los Angeles, Golden Road has opened their very own brewpub and just recently started canning their own tasty line of IPAs. Their signature Point The Way American IPA is a medium-bodied, super sweet ale. With an ABV of 5.2%, it’s not incredibly strong, but it is flavorful and will last a while in your refrigerator thanks to its specially designed pint-sized can.

Golden Road also produces an impressive assortment of seasonal numbers, including their Burning Bush IPA. Clocking in at a staggering 8.0% ABV, this unique brew brings the citrusy bitterness of hops to compete with a smoky, rye aftertaste on the palate. The lingering complexity is surprisingly well-balanced and undeniably smooth. Their complete line of innovative ales, stouts and porters feature curious combinations of flavors and playful names, like Either Side Of The Hill–a zesty and floral strong ale whose name alludes to the geographic divide separating the Valley from the rest of Los Angeles proper.

The Golden Road website mentions a famous German proverb suggesting  that “the first beer calls for the third.” With a hopeful eye on the rapidly developing craft brew market of Los Angeles and beyond, you should certainly be calling for at least that many of their tasty suds sometime soon at your local watering hole.

5.) New Holland Brewing and Spirits, Hatter Royale Hopquila

This masterful misnomer is actually a white whiskey, consisting of double-distilled barley wash which is then bombarded with copious amounts of Centennial hops. The finished product has the grapfruity-goodness that you’d expect from the aroma of an IPA, but with the sharp, peaty finish of unaged whiskey. It’s great for sipping or to mix into some eccentric cocktails.

4.) Ram Restaurant & Brewery, Old Jack

This award-winning barrel-aged stout is as robust in flavor as it is rare and difficult to find.

3.) Dogfish Head Spirits, Whit Spiced Rhum

This ‘beer-inspired rum’ is crafted using orange peel and coriander, the flavors traditionally present in a Belgian style wit. The result is a a smooth drinking spirit that drinks like a heavier Hoegaarden.

2.) Lexington Brewing, Kentucky Bourbon Barrel Ale

This sipping beer has the nose of a fine Kentucky bourbon but with the vanilla, and caramel flavor that you might expect from a strong ale. At just over 8% ABV, it’s a dangerously drinkable beer.

1.) Charbay Winery and Distillery, Doubled and Twisted

This 99-proof Northern Californian Moonshine is made with batches of Racer 5 IPA that dazzles the tongue with a dose of hops, accompanying a subtle aroma of malt and barley. Unique in flavor and masterfully executed, you have to try it to believe it.

As an avid homebrewer, owner Matt Muth had dreamed of opening his own brewery for years but needed to gather the appropriate investment in order to make it a reality. Located just outside of downtown, the spacious tasting room he created was constructed almost entirely out of reclaimed materials such as cooper and wood from old barns. The aesthetic that he’s established is exactly what one would expect in the midst of Big Sky Country.

The beer, on the other hand, is completely unexpected. Showcasing the finest flavors of American craftbrewing, Muth has put together a line of unique ales and porters that defy convention while maintaining supreme satisfaction. Take for example his Brown Porter, which exhibits much more chocolate tones and far less smokiness than the traditional variety. Working with such a small batch of beer allows this zany brewmaster to experiment with a bunch of eccentric ingredients until he finds the combinations that appeal must to his clientele.

Southwestern Montana is somewhat of a hidden gem amongst the more heavily trodden tourist attractions of the Rocky Mountains. But for those that make their way off the beaten path, the serene splendor of this part of the world opens itself up to the intrepid traveler in so many ways: tranquil surroundings, beautiful air, exotic wildlife and now even the intoxicating joy of malt and hops. Drink it all in.

Photo By: Brad Japhe

Since 1997 this fest has attracted beer aficionados from all over the region, allured by the promise of copious amounts of craftbrew and an afternoon of frivolity in a serene setting.  You can even stay overnight with a limited amount of camping provided on-sight.  Just remember that you need to be 21 years of age or older to attend, and that there are absolutely NO dogs allowed on the premises.  Designated Drivers are always welcome, however, and get to enjoy the serenity of sobriety for a $5 entrance fee.  As always, we salute the DD and their tireless dedication to safety. Personally, I think that they should be eligible to receive free hugs throughout the duration of the event.

If you live in the Bay Area you can snatch some advance tickets to this year’s beer fest at Toronado (547 Haight Street) as well as at 21st Amendment (563 2nd Street).  Considering that these are two of the premiere hangouts for San Franciscan beer-lovers, you were probably going to be there this weekend, anyhow.  So you might as well take this opportunity to pick up your passes to what is consistently one of the most buzz-worthy beer-drinking bonanzas in the Western Hemisphere.