This one is for all of you Port lovers!
by Elle Ashlyn
While making my way around a recent Italian wine event in NYC, I stumbled across a sweet little wine called Passito from the Montefalco region of Umbria (The Green Heart of Italy). This wine turned out to be a pleasant surprise in the sea of big Italian reds. Passito wines are lush, ripe and medium sweet, with hints of tobacco, cherry, cocoa and dried fruit, and typically are offered in smaller 500 ml bottle. They are not syrupy sweet like many late harvest or dessert wines, but are balanced with a light sweet mouth feel with a bit of dryness.Passitos are made from the indigenous Umbrian grape varietal, Sagrantino, which is arguably one of the most tannic varietals from Italy! Dry Sagrantino table wines are big, full-bodied and intense red wines packed full of tannin and acidity, basically wines that you can cut your teeth! So you can imagine my surprise when I discovered the candy coated gem was actually Sagrantino!
I was lucky to speak with Filippo Antonelli, one of Montefalco’s very best producers, and he was kind enough to walk me through the Passito production process while I sampled his wine, he explained that the grape clusters are selected then they are left to dry on the trellis for up to two months. The grapes are then harvested and pressed to ferment with the must and skins. From there the wine is sent to age for 12 months in wooden cask followed by 16-18 months in bottle.
A few other interesting tidbits he mentioned about Passito wine and the region of Umbria, is that Montefalco has been growing vines and making wine since biblical times. And the Passito, was the most ancient and traditional stylistic ways to make wine introduced by Franciscan Monks. This style of wine- making is an art that has been passed from generation to generation and is still in practice today.
The next Passito I sampled was from Perticaia, this wine had bursts of blueberry and honey but still balanced and slightly dry. Producer Guido Guardigli, a kind Italian man who takes his winemaking seriously, said “The Passito wine is perfect for Valentine’s Day!” I thought, yes they are –being sweet, delicious, and red. But the real reason he mentioned this is that, Saint Valentine, was actually from the region of Umbria, patron saint of Terni (South Umbria) who is known as and Protector of all lovers and all forms of love!
A few other standouts include:
Scacciadiavoli Montefalco Sagrantino Passito DOCG 2007 –Deep berry fruit with cocoa and pepper. Nice finish!
and
Signae Semèle-Montefalco Sagrantino Passito DOCG 2006- fruit forward with blackberry, pepper, vanilla and espresso with hints of balsamic.
When serving Passito experts advise to stand the bottle up at least 24 hours before opening, then a few hours before serving, pull the cork at least four hours prior. These wines retail between $30-100. What a Valentine specialty….

Leave a comment