Year-end holiday libations are as American as Eggnog. If, like most, you thought that it came from the jolly ol’ world, you’d only be partially right. Eggnog as we know and love it today is an American invention (just like chop suey, pizza and over half the menu at Taco Bell).

The name “Eggnog,” while neither shrouded in mystery nor clouded by alcohol, is certainly of debated origin. Europe had wine and milk punches but, according to one story of derivation, the prevalence of rum in colonial America and the easy access to agricultural products gave birth to a concoction dubbed “egg ‘n grog (rum)” which — even in the pre-tweet days — was shortened just to “Eggnog” (another legend has it that the name derived from “noggin,” a small wooden mug that the drink was served in. Or perhaps it came from an archaic East Anglian dialect and referred to eggs in a small cup).

Where and however it originated, the milk and sherry beverage was quickly amended with egg and fortified with rum and brandy. The stronger the rich mix got, the more popular it became.

Its association with Christmas and New Year’s is a direct outcome of some of its ingredients being most plentiful at year-end (hard cider, in particular), its inherent sociability and the fact that it was customarily served-up in copious party-sized quantities. Eggnog was well-established by Washington’s time and, according to some historians, the first President’s recipe included “rye whiskey, rum AND sherry,” by George.

Next to the nog is the flip. In fact, their relationship is so close as to be zygotic. (Brits use the names interchangeably —  when not driving on the wrong side of the road.) But nog — by either name — took off in the USA with England’s help, as heavy taxes on imported alcohol drove up the demand for home-brew (bourbon, hard cider or beer) which, in turn, was poured into the mix. And thus was birthed modern noggery.

But the name was not the only difference in similar drinks at opposite sides of “the pond.” British flips (aka “egg hot” — just to add to the confusion) was boiled up in a saucepan while its superior American cousin was a much more complicated, and tasty, affair.

Stateside, the compounding commenced with milk, cream, or both, laced with molasses and, when available and affordable, sugar. Then eggs were added as was the alcohol of choice. Optional ingredients included dried grated citrus peel, nutmeg and ginger. A large mug (ceramic or pewter) was filled two thirds with beer or ale, the prepped egg mixture was ladled-in and a fresh-from-the-fire, glowing poker (or flip-dog) was thrust-in. This caused the whole to froth (flip) while imparting a burnt edge to the flavor. Having smelled burnt milk, I don’t see how this became popular but, by the mid 1700s, flips were so much in favor that a tavern bill surviving from that time has them costing more than a full meal and three times the price of a room!

In 1862, the bar guide How to Mix Drinks: or, the Bon-Vivant’s Companion advised repeated cup-to-cup pouring to guarantee smoothness (even today some cocktails are better served by this method than by mechanical mixers) and later guides demarked the nog/flip difference by the presence or absence of cream (some flips are made with water) — though, subsequently, this niggling definition disappeared. By 1887, Jerry Thomas’ bar tenders guide book listed fifteen flip recipes which called for everything from gin to vodka to advocaat (a Dutch, almost noggy liqueuer itself, with its blend of egg yolks, sweetener, vanilla and honey. Bols and De Kuyper sell it). And, since then the nineteenth century, the list has grown to embrace cognac, crème liqueurs and schnapps.

So whatever you call it: Eggnog, Flip, Egg-Hot or Posset (oh yeah, there’s that term too); I doubt that anyone has ever come to blows over the definitions — if any, especially when proffered at the terminal season.

Which brings our little tour to our last festive port of crawl: the fizz. Although not as limited to the Winter holidays, fizzes are fun, contain eggs, and so they fit right in.

Fizzes are categorized under “sours,” despite the heavy inclusion of sugar, which renders some of them as teeth-itchingly sweet as Southern-style lemonade. And that’s appropriate, as they are most often associated with New Orleans, where, in 1888, Henry C. Ramos created his eponymously-monickered version, the Ramos Gin Fizz. Basically a combination of gin, lemon, lime, sugar, cream and egg, the cocktail quickly garnered fans. Infamous Governor Huey Long brought the drink from “the Big Easy” to “the Big Apple,” from whence it went to the rest of the world. In 1935, the Roosevelt Hotel group trademarked the name “Ramos Gin Fizz.”

[Much of this is documented — there’s even newsreel footage — at The Museum of the American Cocktail in New Orleans or, online, at MuseumOfTheAmericanCocktail.org]

Just like with the nog/flip identity issue, the fizz gets confused with the Tom Collins. The differentiation emanates from the type of gin used, with the fizz opting for the “sweeter” Holland or Jenever style. Again, nowadays, such confining distinctions have all but vanished under the creative onslaught of mixologists who have fizzed champagne, port wine, Scotch and whiskey.

Recently, while at Scotland’s Flodigarry Country House Hotel, my dinner was nightcapped with a posset. I anticipated a drink but was surprisingly served a pudding and ‘twas yummy! Post repast, I asked Chef Des Dillon about his culinary creation. He replied that the ingredients in a nog/flip/egg-hot/don’t-get-me-started-on-that-again were basically those of custard and that he’d even dredged bread in a similar mixture to make a nog-out version of French toast! Now that sounds like a great way to start New Year’s Day after a previous night of noggery. But, for the evening of my visit, he had turned a basic posset mixture into a cool, creamy and memorable dessert.

Chef Des Dillon’s LEMON POSSET

600ml double cream

150 grams caster Sugar

2 large lemons, zested and juiced
200ml light rum or vodka

Combine all ingredients in a pan and bring to a boil.

Once boiled, remove from the heat and pass liquid though a fine sieve to retrieve zest and pips, etc.

Allow to cool slightly before pouring into glasses.

Chill for four hours.

(serves four)

Note: He’d topped it with a clear lemon, sugar and gelatin float which was nice but not necessary.

There are also edible entries under the headings: lattes, cakes, pies and cheesecake. But, when it comes to  Eggnog, I’m a purist, so let’s move on to imbibables.

EGGNOG

There are just too many recipes out there to know where to begin and they’re easily available. I heartily recommend trying several, as many of the ready-mades seem to exist solely to prove that you can do better. There’s even a low-fat, vegan, sugar, fat and alcohol-free Eggnog. BUT WHAT’S THE POINT!?

Should you want to get exotic, foreign nogs include Rompope (Mexico),

Coquito (Puerto Rico, including coconut milk), Biblia con Pisco (Peru) and Eierlikor (Germany, which also has Biersuppe — just in case you do want an egg in your beer.)

Addendum:

While on my recent Scotland sojourn, I picked up a copy of a trendy U.K. pub (as in pub-lication) called “The List,” which was just too much fun to exclude. It had the following potent potion from mixologician Nick Reed of The Raconteur in Edinburgh . . .

THE DEATH FLIP

. . . of which Nick wrote: “It’s a mixture of Chartreuse, Jagermeister and Tequila with a whole egg . . . a couple of spoons sugar, a couple of ounces of cognac, an ounce of Jamaican rum, a small touch of cranberry. Shake and pour. It’s topped off with some grated nutmeg.”

“The List” commented: “Tiramisu in a glass.” And: “Surprisingly festive even for Brits not versed in the ways of the yuletide Eggnog.”

Now let’s get FIZZICAL –

The basic Gin Fizz contains the alcohol specified plus citrus juice, carbonated water and powdered sugar and a customarily served in a highball glass with a couple of ice cubes.

Variations:
Silver Fizz (add egg white); Golden Fizz (with egg yolk); Royal Fizz (a whole egg); and the Diamond Fizz (sub sparkling wine for charged aqua).

RAMOS (New Orleans) FIZZ

2 oz gin (some recipes prefer Old Tom)
1 oz heavy cream
1 egg white (or equivalent powdered substitute)
½ oz lemon juice (fresh-squeezed is best)
½ oz lime juice (fresh-squeezed is best)
2 tsp powdered or superfine sugar
3 drops orange flower water

Combine all in a hand-shaker filled with cracked ice and shake it up baby for a couple of minutes. (The aerobics will help burn off the calories!) Strain/pour into a Collins glass and add a shpritz of cold seltzer to taste.