by Sonia Meyer

Mendocino County wineries and winemakers have been practicing sustainable and organic wine-growing techniques long before reusable grocery bags and corn-based utensils became popular. The Taste of Mendocino, hosted by the Mendocino Winegrape and Wine Commission (http://www.truemendocinowine.com), was nothing shy of an elegant, intimate collaboration of a growing community of wine producers, all with one purpose: to make great, natural wine.

Fifty-eight passionate vintners poured wines exclusively for the trade and media.  The attendees not only experienced great wine, but they also learned about the importance of organic, biodynamic, sustainable production processes—and the much larger impact these “new” methods have had on the environment and our physical health.

As winemaker Kristy Charles from Foursight Wines explained, the California North Coast is “an optimal climate for growing organic wines.” It was only “natural” for Mendocino wine makers to leave the juice as pure as the fresh-picked grapes.

I began my Mendocino wine experience with bubbles, of course. Roederer Estate’s 2002 L’Ermitage is worth mentioning. It’s a light, refreshing sparkler that would brighten any ordinary fish dinner. Another notable pour was Scharffenberger Cellar’s delicate Rosé. With its light tongue and subtle fruit finish, it’s great for any occasion.

Moving on to the whites, I found that Maple Creek produces a unique, sweet Symphony (a hybrid of Muscat and Granache), and Husch Vineyards makes a delightfully clean and acidic Sauvignon Blanc.

Finishing off with the reds, I enjoyed sipping Edmeades Perli Vineyards’ Zinfandel. This full-bodied Zinfandel was a perfect balance of tangy and sweet flavors. Although there has been a lot of concern about the Mendocino County fires affecting wine, there was only one I tried that had a subtly smoky taste. Critics would say that the smoky taste is a defect, although I like to see the silver lining in things. Barra of Mendocino’s Sangiovese, though smoky, might just be the ideal BBQ accompaniment—and proof that Mendocino County wine is truly natural.